Thursday, May 5, 2011

"Give me my toothbrush!"

....which is what I wish the little kids here would ask me. Instead, they say "give me my money!" The "my" is not a typo; they do, indeed, ask you to give them their money...

Embarking on my second year of Peace Corps, I’m formulating ideas of projects I would like to do or work with. It’s a tough balance, though, determining what is best for the village and what they want to do compared to introducing new things that myself as a volunteer feels would highly benefit the community as a whole. For example, dental hygiene is not highly valued in the village, not necessarily because people don’t care but rather because generally they are not taught proper techniques. This is a much larger problem than one might imagine. Commonly, those in the village without proper dental hygiene often times suffer from conditions such as abscessed teeth without access to proper treatment to loss of teeth making it difficult to eat.
Therefore, I am proposing and formulating a project for this fall and I need your help! October is National Dental Hygiene Month in America and I want to celebrate it here in Malawi as well. I plan on conducting training’s on proper usage of toothbrushes and toothpaste to people in my village of Bwanje as well as surrounding area. I am requesting the following:
Toothbrushes - inexpensive samples (that you have collected from your twice yearly trip to the dentist, no doubt!) or ones purchased
Toothpaste - sample tubes of any flavor (please exclude packaging, please!) 
You might be asking “What about floss?” I think it would be great to teach flossing techniques as well, but the longevity of flossing is something I don’t foresee. First being that you cannot buy floss in the village, and second that the floss will likely be used for children's enjoyment instead. But if you would still like to send some, you are most welcome!
One question we as Peace Corps Volunteers must ask ourselves while brainstorming ideas is, “Is this project sustainable?” The answer is yes! Toothbrushes and toothpaste can be purchased in my village but can be a financial stretch for some people. My hope is that if I can show Malawians the importance and benefits of proper hygiene while giving them a toothbrush to start with, they will be more willing to continue good practices. In addition I wanted to have a project that includes the opportunity for all of you, my friends and family, to contribute.
Being that the Malawi postal service can be extremely slow, I am requesting packages to be mailed from America by July 15th, 2011 at the latest. Please know that I cannot be successful with this project without all of you back home, and any contribution you have will be so much appreciated. Even if you only have two toothbrushes to send, that is two more than I have now! My goal is 1000 toothbrushes and the equivalent of toothpaste samples. Help me to achieve this and possibly surpass it! Please ask your local dentist to participate as well! Below I will include a formal letter for you to give to them explaining my project
All donations can be sent to:
Mary Kuhlke
℅ BERDO
PO Box 4
Bwanje, Ntcheu
Malawi
AFRICA
Thank you all in advance for contributing to the education of proper dental hygiene practices! All the best!

Please click this link for a formal letter. Thank you!

This is a girl in my village who cracks me up
but is also in serious need of a toothbrush!

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Kuno ku....DEUTSCHLAND!

Sometime in mid January I mentally decided I needed a vacation...to Germany. A little background information might make help you to understand why Germany and not the United States for a break…
My mother transfered airline bases in summer of 2009. Having applied to Peace Corps in June and still waiting for a hopeful reply in the fall, I decided September was a good time to depart from the states on a 5 month travel excursion around Europe and South East Asia. In a nutshell, I had a blast! I stayed at mom’s apartment in Wiesbaden between travels to places such as France, Croatia, and Thailand while enjoying the time to spend with her as well. 
I experienced so much in those 5 months that it’s almost hard to imagine much of my life as I know it existing before then. It was an amazing time for my self development and preparation for coming to Peace Corps. I had to be perfectly sure I could live with myself ;) In that time, I formed such a connection to Frankfurt, Wiesbaden, and Mainz that even at the beginning of my service in Malawi I said to myself “I would take a vacation to Germany instead of the United States if I went anywhere during my service.”
Also, I’d be lying to say I simply wanted a break from Malawi and happened on choosing Germany. I met Leo on a train while traveling back from Oktoberfest in München with my brother Scott, and had the pleasure of enjoying his company and train rides together for over a month around the holidays. It felt about right to catch up again and see if those train rides were the same again. Thus, I purchased a ticket the end of January, only a month and a half later to hop on a train and live another adventure.
I had fantasized about what it would feel like to leave Malawi some day. Having not planned a trip outside of the country and it being more spontaneous, I hadn’t figured I would experience it until I COS’d (Close of Service) in 2012. The reverse culture shock, being able to eat all the foods I had dreamt about (or imagined my cooking creations tasted like), having long hot showers, riding transport that didn’t feel like it was falling apart...to name a few of the things I’d dreamt about. Having heard stories of other PCVs visiting home and coming back, my mind began to wander about what I was soon to experience on my own.
Flight over Malawi
It hadn’t quite dawned on me until heading to the airport that it had been over a year since I’d traveled on a plane. To most people this wouldn’t seem to odd, but having grown up the child of a flight attendant, it’s rare to go that long without venturing out. It was quite weird, honestly, how it didn’t feel weird at all to be hopping on a plane bound for a destination beyond the equator.

----------
Well, first to say I was immediately overwhelmed with the pace of everything and the visual stimulation of photos, shops, and people. I walk quite fast for Malawi and thus arriving in Germany I was surprised to feel how fast everything was moving. Also, it probably didn’t help that there were 100 different things I wanted to look at while I was walking! Knowing that my beloved Ditsch pretzels and Ritter Sport chocolates were in close proximity made it hard to focus on much more than strolling forward.
I was greeted by Leo at the airport (what a trooper for arriving to meet my 5am flight!) and we headed down to the trains. All the emotions and feelings came rushing back as I was taking the same steps I did over a year ago when I returned from each of my adventures around Europe. I even had to stop at one point while walking down the stairs to the trains because I couldn’t believe I had actually arrived. Germany didn’t seem that foreign to me at that point, or rather as much as I had anticipated it would feel foreign. It was an odd feeling, for sure, to feel at home as if things simply fell into place and had never changed.
The first thing Leo bought for me was a Ditsch pretzel (or as I’m always corrected, brezel) which was better than I could have ever imagined! We arrived when hot ones were right out of the oven, which quite literally melt in your mouth. They were so good I had do the whole thing where you shut your eyes and savor every single flavor that slides to your belly. I can only imagine how much fun Leo had over the next few weeks watching me as I took bites of food I hadn’t tasted in over a year!
Following much deserved nap after over 17 hour of travel, we mustered up the strength to head to the grocery store. Our walk to the store brought back delightful memories and flashbacks of the year before. As we approached the sliding doors (whaaaat?! They open automatically?!) I mentally prepared myself for the stupendous options of things I was soon to embark on. I have to say, Leo was awesome in helping me live the fantasies I had of what it would be like to go into a grocery store after a years absence. His words were continually “get whatever you want!” which seems easy except when you have no idea what you want...
First stop: beer. I almost stop in my tracks in shock at the cases upon cases of beer before me. To let you know, we have about four bottles of beers for options in Malawi therefore you pick a favorite and order it 9 times out of 10. The other one time, you order one you’re not used to just so that you can try and “mix things up.” When Leo asks me to choose some beer my immediate response was something like “No, no, you’re going to have to choose or I might start crying!” 
It sounds silly but I really did have to slow myself down and take a few breaths. There were so many things I wanted to look at, touch, smell, buy...that my brain was popping out in every direction. I had heard stories of people crying in stores and having to leave and I was determined not to be one of those. As I approached the shampoo isle, it felt like everything around me fell away and all my focus turned to the colors of the bottles and the anticipation of smelling the shampoo I so longed for. Yes, sounds funny, but you wouldn’t be laughing if you knew the only shampoo I can afford in Malawi! I simply looked for the one I used to buy, and then moved on to conditioner. Not only was I overwhelmed with all the options, but I couldn’t read in German what sort of treatment each was good for. Leo came over to help me out but it wasn’t until I got home I realized I’d picked up two shampoos and no conditioner…that overwhelmed, yep!
The rest of the food decisions went much the same way. Brie was the only cheese I could think of I wanted to eat, and when it came to crackers to eat it with I had to turn things over to Leo. Special yogurts were the only thing besides chocolate that I could remember, so those went in the basket. So many options, packaging, and flavors that I could not for the life of me remember what I used to like. When all you have to choose are basically between crackers and no crackers, your brain forgets what you like. In the end it went well, and I left the store without having shed a tear. Mission accomplished!
----------
I had the pleasure of being able to enjoy the company of my parents on this vacation as well. Dad came out a couple of days after I’d arrived to Germany and we spent the day together, catching up and chatting about some of my crazy experiences as well as ideas post Peace Corps. It was such a wonderful day, one that almost seemed surreal since we had only had phone calls and a few Skype dates since I leave the US. It felt the same to be around him, as he hadn’t changed much in ways I subconsciously anticipated. But I had to pinch myself every once in a while because it didn’t seem completely real. We enjoyed delicious German bratwurst for lunch, having a lovely time strolling around Frankfurt and simply reveling in each others company.
My mother came in the following day and it was amazing to see her as well. It is funny how you grow out of the stages of adolescence to further appreciate your parents. Sounds like a “simple stupid” concept, but it’s great when things feel much easier with your parents and you’re not fighting to prove that you’re smarter ;) We spent the day a museum in Frankfurt, the most education stimulation I’d experienced in over a year and it was fantastic! I also began to realize how much I was missing color. In Malawi, women wear a chitenje (2 meters of fabric) on a daily basis and they are made full of colors and designs beyond ones imagination. I had become so used to seeing this that the neutral tones of clothing made me long for the ever changing eye candy of Malawi. It doesn’t help, either, that it is nearing the end of rainy season and everything is so green compared to the winter months of Germany.
Lunch! Currywurst and fries.
Having returned to a place where I had met many people I’d so much enjoyed, I wanted to have a dinner that night bringing them all together to enjoy the  company. Prior to meeting them, the three of us strolled around Wiesbaden for an hour or so, reliving the memories I’d had there. It is a weird experience to have everything appear the same but you being the one that has changed in relation to it. I began to see things different, see people different, in a way I hadn’t expected. It felt so nice not to be gawked at, as so often happens to me in Malawi. I also couldn’t help but think of the time and money spent on construction of trains, stations, buildings, cars, etc. when people in Malawi have so little. All the perks of a developed country is all I can say! Before dinner, I was on a bit of a mission to find some earrings to take back to Malawi. When I couldn’t find the shop when I was so sure I knew the location, I literally wanted to throw my hands up and start crying! Overwhelming experiences were far from over… (I did find some earrings by the way :))
Anna, Gaby, Guillermo, and Leo met my parents and me in Wiesbaden, where mom used to live. With Gaby’s suggestion, we enjoyed each others company at a place called Scotch and Soda, where the owner throws money at the ceiling where after it mysteriously sticks. Couldn’t help but contribute some Malawian Kwacha to the cause! What a delightful time it was to share with people I had missed! With beers ordered around the table (and enjoying mine more than I could have ever imagined!), it came time to order. I settled on the schnitzel, only to be bombarded with options from the waitress. “What kind of meat? Any sauce? How would you like your potatoes?” I’d hit my limit by that point and thus had to turn things over to Leo to finish ordering. Needless to say, it was absolutely delicious and I wish I could have finished it all, but my stomach was working its hardest on digesting all the delicious flavor!

The crew! Guillermo, Dad,
 Gaby, Me, Leo, Mom, Anna
I brought along my computer and shared photos and videos of my life in Malawi. I felt such joy to be sharing it with people outside of Peace Corps, feeling as though they were learning more about the culture without even having to travel there. And being able to show people my life for the last year was a really fun experience too. I would lie to say that during that time I didn’t feel a little bit homesick for Malawi and my beloved dogs. They are almost like my children and whenever I’m away I miss them a lot.
It’s inevitable that all good things must come to an end, as dinner eventually would. Catching up with dear friends was such a pleasure and I couldn’t have asked for anything more. It was as if I had a welcome back party, even it if was just vacation. I slept like a brick that night at the hotel with my parents, not realizing how exhausting everything had become! 

----------
Leo’s birthday was the 19th of March and we enjoyed a low key day followed by an evening at a bar we used to go to, The Cat. It hit me again how most everything stays the same but so much in relation to it changes. We had a great time enjoying a familiar atmosphere and celebrating another year older for him :)
In further celebration, we traveled to Leo’s dad’s house the following day to have lunch with Siggy (his stepmom), Philip (his brother), Johanna (Philip’s girlfriend), and the two young boys, Etienne and Nicolas. His father was caught up with some things at work and was unable to join us. Riding the train didn’t get old nor did having things running on time! You never know in Malawi….actually, you do. You’re most often pretty sure that everything will be late! It was so nice to be able to travel out of the city a bit and see the country side on our way to Darmstadt. It was also such a pleasure to see Siggy, Philip, and Etienne again and a joy to meet Nicolas and Johanna for the first time.
Delicious steak lunch with salad and vegetables made for yet another party in my mouth! My stomach was still adjusting to all the food by this time. Seeing that my diet more regularly consists of tomatoes, starch, and eggs or beans, everything else going in was so exciting! Preparing lunch was also a time where it dawned on my how simple thing are in developed countries. Running water, electric stoves, grocery store down the road, refrigerator…. All the amenities that one takes for granted was almost overwhelming for me. Of course I hadn’t forgotten where I’d come from nor did it take long to fall back into the ease of using such things, but it was just a weird concept to have it so easily available. Having matching dishes and silverware was a bit odd as well!
Leo, me, Etienne, Johanna, Philip, Nicolas
Seeing that Leo’s family speaks German, I was a bit out of the loop during discussions not in English. In Malawi, I have done my best to learn the local language of my area, Chichewa, but I’m by no means a pro. Thus, I tend to zone out sometimes when I’m not catching on to conversations and tend to go into my own little world of thoughts to pass the time. Of course his family did their best speaking English, but the times they spoke Germany I felt just fine. It didn’t feel weird nor uncomfortable for me. It gave me some time to reflect on all the newness around me!
The day was so much fun and we left with bellies full of delicious food and two slices of cake :) By this point I was almost forcing my stomach to keep up with my desires! More to come with over a week left of vacation :)
--------
By Monday, 5 days after I had arrived, I was starving for some solo time. Since I had arrived in Germany I hadn’t stopped going places and meeting people. It had been such a great few days, but I’ll be honest to say I was not used to talking with people so much nor having so much “business” around me. With Leo off to work for the day I declared it a personal day. By this, I spent the whole day in my pajamas and bouncing around the apartment while catching up on my new favorite TV show, Glee, and watching random youtube.com videos and making myself laught. I also munched on some of my favorite chocolate my mom brought from the states, having not eaten much more than that and yogurt during the day. Yes, I could have gone down to the corner bakery (without having to lift a finger to cook!) but I simply could not part from my pajamas! It was so much needed and helped me to regroup myself for the still busy week that was to come.
I did, however, manage to pull myself out of pajamas and enjoy a hot shower without having to go to the well to draw water. It didn’t hurt that there was some incentive for Chinese food after meeting Leo at the train station when he was done from work. That feast was absolutely amazing, and well worth pulling out of my pajamas :D It was another one of those meals where I would stop half chew and try my hardest to tattoo the delicious flavors on my brain. 
----------
The following day I began getting sick...booo! It happens to me on a more regular basis than I would like to admit, but what can you do. My assumption was that the change in hot weather to cold shocked my sinuses quite a bit. That, or all the food really was going to my brain ;) Either way, I wasn’t going to let a little cold dampen my spirits. I wanted to catch up with an old friend of mine I hadn’t seen in about 7 years, Christine. She traveled from her home town to Frankfurt and we spent the day walking around and enjoying the sunshine. I enjoy meeting up with long time friends because you realize how much time as passed and learn to appreciate those memories much more. 
Me and Christine
We had a wonderful time as we strolled around and stopped to enjoy some Italian food. Surprisingly it wasn’t difficult for me to decide on a tomato, mozzarella, and basil pizza which was everything I could have imagined! I was beginning to really realize how much comfort I had given up by choosing Peace Corps. Being able to dry my hair, put on make up, dress up, and meet a friend was something I fell back into quickly and that I realized quite quick I missed. In the village there is none of that. Experiencing both sides have helped me appreciate the simplicity as well as complexity of both sides of cultures. It really has given me a different perspective of the privilege in which I grew up.
----------
The following days Leo had off of work so we bounced around and chilled out. My cold hit me the worst the day after seeing Christine but it didn’t stop me from enjoying McDonalds followed by real, delicious ice cream! Malawi has neither of these so I did the best I could by putting up with eating it ;) Between rides on Josy (his 1971 East German Simon Schwalbe moped) and eating foods such as sushi and bratwurst, we had a delightful time enjoying the improving weather. I really enjoyed feeling the colder weather, since Malawi’s cold season only gets down to somewhere in the 40s. Wearing jackets and jeans again were so much fun!
----------
Seeing that Leo’s dad could not join us for lunch over the weekend, we caught up with him for lunch that Friday at the same Chinese restaurant where we enjoyed our huge feast a few days prior. His father is from Texas and thus speaking english all during lunch was great :) Leo talked about his plans for traveling that will begin once his internship is finished in June. It was fun to see from a different perspective of a father in so much support of his son to travel. Knowing how much it has first handedly changed my life, I’m thrilled for Leo to be able to experience this soon and be living the dirty life of intermittent showers ;)
I shared what I am doing in Peace Corps, the projects I’ve completed and working on as well as the plans I have for the rest of my service. The inevitable question that I am always asked is “What are your plans after Peace Corps?” It’s the million dollar question, I always tell people. My options range anywhere from becoming a flight attendant, to owning a sewing shop, to going back to school. However, school isn’t much of an option if you don’t know what you want to study… But one thing that his father said during lunch was “Figure out what you are really good at and then work in that direction for a career.” In the past I’d thrown around the idea of becoming a Dental Lab Technician, where I would be creating teeth for those who, well, obviously need them :) His comment has helped me to search more into that possibility and thus we’ll see where it goes. It’s nice to feel like at least there is some sort of direction in my brain for the end of Peace Corps!
Following lunch, Leo and I found ourselves in a car with a guy heading somewhere towards the Dutch boarder, a place called Ramsdorf. Okay, fine….we’d arranged a ride out there to visit his mom and stepdad for the weekend so it wasn’t by pure accident. I had never met them before, but was so much looking forward to it as well as having a break from the city and going out to the country where I anticipated feeling more at home. It was nice to sit back in the car and put on some music and zone out for a little bit. I thought of back home, Malawi, and things I missed. My dogs and Malawian family were at the top of the list, with the heat resting at an easy last.
It was about a three to four our trip and were welcomed by great hugs and greetings from Heike (Leo’s mother) and Hansi (his stepdad) once we arrived. I’d felt like I’d arrived home with the great hospitality! I can safely say that by this point in my travel I was feeling much more adjusted to Germany, the perks going along with a developed country, and of course the food. Good thing, because I was in for a lot of it for the next few days! I’ll be honest to say I wasn’t entirely sure how long it would take me to readjust, or if I would in such a short two week period. But I sure was happy to have my stomach catch up with my appetite!
----------
Over the next few days I had the pleasure of spending time with Heike and Hansi, and all the food that came along with it. I don’t think there was a time when I was actually hungry, but I couldn’t have asked for anything more :) Breakfast consisted of chunks of brie cheese placed over salted butter on delicious German bread rolls, accompanied by blood orange juice and a seemingly endless supply of bubbly water. Had I arrived in heaven?! 
Being that Ramsdorf is so close to the Dutch border (about 15km!), we cruised over for a walk around their weekly market. It felt great to be driving through the country side and feeling like I could finally breath. The city was so hectic for me that I really enjoyed slowing down a little bit. The market was overwhelming with so many things to look at with desires to buy. The cheese stand was quite possibly my favorite, as I could sample practically any cheese available. Woah, would my friends back in Malawi be jealous! We talk all the time about missing cheese and having huge blocks of it at my disposal was almost cruel…except it all tasted delicious. Next was the olive stand where the man kept giving out samples. Since Leo was full (and I would have kicked myself later had I not accepted all the *free* samples) I picked up the slack and munched away. Still, at this point, I wasn’t hungry, but based on principle I could not turn away any food!
We picked up some fresh fish to grill that evening for dinner while very much enjoying some fried fish with a sort of tartar sauce. My taste buds were still going crazy, and soaking everything up! I wished I could share the excess with my friends in Malawi, but too bad for them... To warm up a little, we headed in a cafe for some coffee and hot chocolate. I couldn’t help but think about the instant coffee with powdered milk I drink back in Malawi compared to fresh brewed, with real cream and sugar. Oh, luxuries! I enjoyed every minute of it all. I truly was being spoiled!
After buying some dog treats for my pups back in Malawi and stopping in an antique shop where I bought a ring shaped as a snake (in honor of my close calls, of course), we headed back to the house. A relaxing afternoon watching one of my favorite movies, Into the Wild (which inspired my blog title), and munching on yet moooore cheese and olives sat for a good relaxed afternoon. I enjoyed being able to feel normal for a little bit, enjoying such luxuries I have grown up with. I tried enjoying them as much as possible, knowing that in less than a week I would be back in Malawi with no access to such things.
The grilled fish was absolutely amazing and made me wonder if I could recreate anything similar to it with our “fresh” fish at the weekly market. Who knows, I may surprise myself by trying it out, but in the same breath may never want to eat fish again if it turns out poorly! We all ate until we couldn’t move and then enjoyed a game of Parcheesi (which always seemed to last longer than anticipated) followed by a game of Settlers of Catan, one that I enjoy playing with friends in Malawi. I’ve won a single game, and it was the first time I played. Ever since then I’ve pretty well come in last, and have yet to figure out why…

Heike cooking delicious food!
Sunday was a relaxing day with a breakfast for kings! I’m not sure that I came down from Cloud 9 all weekend…. Real butter, Nutella, cheese, jams, eggs, everything I could have imagined. Now, some of you might be saying “Mary, get over all the food stuff already!” Maybe you’d understand more if you only had access to a small selection of veggies and had to cook all of your own meals. Definitely puts a twist on things. Come and visit if you want to find out...
With an afternoon free before we had to head back to Mainz, Leo and I borrowed his mothers car and headed out for a drive. Oh, it was a convertible :) which added even more to the novelty of cruising around! We crossed into the Netherlands and had such a fun time driving while enjoying the landscape and sporadic windmills.
With our last meal of lamb with pasta and veggies settled in our bellies, we said our goodbyes and spoke of our hopes to see again sometime in the future. Who knows, maybe the German country side holds some luster for me in the future. Leo and I had a chance to chat in the back about travels and adventures, which brought back to light where I was back in 2009. I couldn’t believe it had been that long since I’d traveled Europe and reflecting on those times were bittersweet. It almost makes me wish I could have that time back! But I’m on quite another adventure with Peace Corps right now which is an absolute joy.
We arrived in Mainz after 11pm and were ready for some rest. I couldn’t figure out if it was the length of the trip or the food coma I was in from the constant consumption over the weekend. I could feel my jeans were a bit more snug but I knew in less than a week I would be wishing I had eaten more. My trip was slowly coming to an end and I know i only had a short time to make more buttons pop ;)
----------
I had the pleasure of enjoying a day with my mother when she arrived in Frankfurt the next morning on a layover. Oh, the benefits of the airlines! Before we knew it we had sandwiches and coffee in hand, sitting on a train bound for Würzburg. We thought getting out of the city would be a nice break while having plenty of time to catch up, again :)
Not having realized it, I had traveled to Würzburg on my first trip to Germany, back in 1998 or so. It is a place for our family that will be forever known as where Stephen mooned us right under an archway. So in honor, I saluted him while I was there! The walk up to the castle was more exhausting than I thought it would be, making me realize how out of shape I had become with all the food and lack of my regular exersize in Malawi. Who cares, life is to be enjoyed right?!

Mom and me in Würzburg 
We found a great spot to sit on top of the stone wall overlooking the city, and talked for what seemed like hours. I spoke mostly about my growing thoughts of a possible career in Dentistry when I’m finished with Peace Corps. It makes me chuckle to reflect back on being a child and declaring “I would never be a dentist! I would hate to stare into people’s mouths all day!” Oh, times do change! However I would modify that with working in a lab by creating teeth to then send off to the dental offices, thus truly not really staring into people’s mouths all day ;) It feels good to sense I have a bit more direction now for once I’m finished with Peace Corps. I’m not sure yet if dental school is the next step for sure, but it feels good to at least have my hamsters upstairs turning the wheels to direct me in opportunities.
It was such fun to spend the day with my mom, munching on apple tarts and enjoying asian noodles with a tall beer. As I’ve grown older (or grown up, as my mother would probably say), she has become more of a friend than a parent to me. It’s an amazing feeling to be able to bounce ideas off of a parent and yet feel a complete understanding and acceptance for who you happen to be at the time. I can only imagine what it is like to watch a child grow up, seeing the joys along with the sadness on a regular basis. But she and my father have been troopers along with my shenanigans of growing up and I couldn’t thank them more for not giving up on me.

Salute!

A tearful goodbye to mom a I caught the train back to Mainz left a feeling inside that this delightful vacation was quickly coming to a close. The next reunion with them will take place in September, when they come out to see my life in Malawi and as we continue to travel to Botswana, Zambia, and Zimbabwe for the safari of a lifetime! 
-----------
My last day in Mainz was bittersweet. I’d enjoyed all my time in Germany, seeing my parents, friends, spending time with Leo, and eating as much food as possible. I woke up with the attitude of enjoying the entire day and not getting sad about catching my 11:15 flight that evening. After all, you can’t stop time nor make it go faster, so why not just enjoy it while it’s there?
A barbeque was decided on for my last big hoorah in Germany. All I wanted was a huge bratwurst with mustard and beer, so off we went to the store! A few last rides on Josy with the wind at my face was a pleasure. When you only have bike taxis as the closest thing to relate to a moped, it helps you to really enjoy it. We picked up some food goodies which included chocolate to stash in my bag for my future enjoyment as well as brie cheese and crackers (which was a much easier choice this time around!) :) 

Yum yum bbq!
With Basti (Leo’s roommate) and Johannes (friend) around, we barbecued away and stuffed ourselves. I couldn’t pass up mozzarella, tomato, basil salad either! Down to the Rhine River to join up with some other friends having a barbecue (of course, ours was better) followed by gently placing ice cream on top of the bratwurst in my belly. Last chance for most everything delicious, so I was doing my best to shove it in my stomach. Again I was reminded how easy things are in a developed country, in buying packaged meats while not having to slaughter the animal or to buying bread in packages ready to bake. 
It didn’t quite hit me until I was checking my bag (fully of goodies that expanded over my backpack) that I was leaving to go back to Malawi. I’ve always managed to give myself a hard time when leaving Germany with my baggage and this was no different. I survived checking the bag before the tears started to come and having to say goodbye to Leo. It’s never easy leaving someone and a place you feel connected with when you’re not quite ready. But life brings things full circle and we’ll see where this next year leads. Maybe an unexpected visitor in Malawi, we’ll see ;)
----------
My flights home were uneventful. I felt in a bit of a dream through it all, going through the motions but not really tuning in to everything around me. Back in Malawi now it almost feels like all of my vacation was a dream. It was the same way how Malawi felt while I was in Germany, almost as if it had never happened. I can honestly say that my time away from Peace Corps and Malawi has helped me to appreciate the country much more, even for its quirks and frustrations. I feel more focused on completing my last year of Peace Corps with a bang, and doing more projects as much as my community wants to do. I yearn for more adventures at times, but realize it’s at my front door step every day here in Malawi, regardless of where I am in the country. All I can do in the time being is make the best of all my experiences and realize that not everything lasts, the good and bad. Someday I will find myself back in developed country, craving the Malawian culture once again but unable to return as easily.
A teacher in middle school would tell us every weekend before leaving class, “Life is full of opportunities, choose the appropriate ones.” As my mother says, “Seize the day!” As Bilbo Baggins said, “It’s a dangerous business, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no telling where you might be swept off it.” So with that, trust your feet and seize the opportunities in which you meet! Live life to its fullest :)

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Mission Accomplished!

We did it! With the help of my counterpart, over two dozen Village Headmen, and my community in Bwanje, we successfully distributed 500 mosquito nets before my vacation to Germany (but I’ll talk about that in another blog!). The project in all was frustrating, exciting, hectic, but most importantly humbling and entirely worth all the stress.
Distributing nets was the first project I had knowing a definite beginning and end. I’m not sure if it made planning and organizing harder or easier. On one hand I had to kick myself in gear to get things done, but also had the stress of having a deadline of when I wanted to have it finished. My experience here in Malawi continues to push me in ways I never knew it would. While wanting to get things going fast, I had to prepare lot more for meetings ahead of time than I have in the past. The only kicker is that I was trying to prepare without any real information on how to distribute 500 nets. I did, however, collect a small pamphlet on malaria in the office and worked off of that, doing my best to design a sort of training for those people receiving nets.
One requirement in being giving nets to distribute (many people applied for them, only few people received them), we had to explain our idea for distribution as well as plans for follow up to ensure the nets are being properly used. In listening to other PCVs challenges with various projects, I ultimately decided that I wanted to have a mandatory training and demonstration. The training included information on how malaria is contracted, how to prevent it (by means other than simply using a net, i.e. staying in your house in the evenings as well as getting rid of standing water), and common misconceptions. It may sound silly to have a mosquito net demonstration but you would be surprised at how many people have never owned let alone used one. I determined that if a person didn’t show up to the training they would not receive a net. Often times people will say “Oh, I am taking it for my sick friend” and then end up selling it or pawning it off, ultimately never reaching the person in need.
As happens often in developing countries, corruption is a huge foot crushing down and preventing growth. I was deeply saddened (and upset, to be honest) when I found out that corruption lies even within net distribution at my local clinic. Health Advisors will sometimes hand them out to family and friends instead of to the women who need them most. Other times when the clinic runs out, a woman cannot return to the clinic to receive her net once she has had the child. I’m assuming the clinic simply assumes she is trying to get another one. Why not keep records of all those who have not received one? Fantastic question…. So undoubtedly, a good portion of the 500 nets went to pregnant women, those people with children under five, and orphans. We also included those living with HIV/AIDS as well as people over 50, both whose immune systems are low and susceptible to dying if malaria is caught.
With all of this in mind, I worked with my counterparts Matekenya and Evelyn in arranging a meeting with prominent people in the village to help with organizing distributing jobs to make this work. Therefore, our first meeting included myself, Matekenya, Evelyn, Zulu (former Bwanje PCV counterpart), and Mkungula (works with BERDO, an NGO in Bwanje), and went off without a hitch. I was still skeptical that all things would work out in the time I had alloted but (one of many lessons I’ve learned in PC, being skeptical…) you cannot control how everything goes especially when it involves many people. Sometimes you just need to let go and trust that people will do their jobs, or pick up the pieces when they drop the ball. I explained my idea for the training and distribution while simultaneously taking into consideration how the others felt it would go best. After all, they do know how Malawians work, better than I do!
Just after the first meeting (much to my displeasure) I had a week of training I had to attend in Dedza where we were preparing for the new trainees that would fly into country the following week. It wasn’t the training specifically, more simply the timing of it being right in the middle of all the net planning. A meeting I had scheduled the day before I had to leave got canceled (not to my surprise…), therefore I was unable to attend the meeting later that week that would include over fifteen Village Headmen (VH) and Group Village Headmen (GVH) in discussing our project plans. I asked Matekenya and Evelyn to represent and speak for me at the meeting, being the two people in the village who I trust the most.
I was so pleased when I heard the meeting went well and that each VH was instructed to bring ten names of people in their village in which they thought were in most need of a net. Just a little explanation about how the village works (rather, as much as I can sort out…): GVHs oversee the VHs. To give you an idea, at one particular meeting we had three GVHs and 18 VHs. The VHs will “monitor” some 30-40 people on average, always varying of course. Any issues arising that cannont be sorted out amongst those involved will go to the VH, and the further to the GVH if needed. It’s almost like a little jury system! At any rate, Matekenya thought that having the VH collect names would help cut down on our work and give them a chance to speak for who they think were most in need. Of course this leads to more corruption (i.e. putting down friends and family names), but we accepted in the beginning this would happen. Another hard lesson learned here is that one simply cannot expect 100% success or you will be let down. We acknowledged that we would shoot for 70% success with distribution.
My returning to the village a day early opened a surprise that the following day would be our first day of distribution. Woah! Was I ready? No! I’ll be honest to say I did not feel prepared, and had more the idea that I would end up winging things. Of course I was nervous, as this was the first time that many people in the Bwanje area would be seeing and meeting me and however that went it would inevitably aid in forming an opinion of me. Sooooo, there we went….
I was anxious before the meeting began, especially when Zulu came late with no bed for the demonstration. Yes, yes, I have accepted things don’t happen on time here, but my American culture of punctuality is hard to kick! With the bed unknown, we began the meeting on our scheduled time, of course telling everyone else it would be one hour earlier to ensure they would show up on time. Mkungula opened for us, as he enjoys public speaking very much and getting a crowd interested in a topic of discussion. With the meeting being carried on in Chichewa, Matekenya was kind enough to translate as much as he could for me with what Mkungula was talking about, followed by the Health Advisor from the clinic who discussed proper usage of Coartem, the medicine curing malaria. 
As I sat back and looked out at over two hundred faces of women, children, orphans, and older folks attending the training, I realized I wasn’t doing much of anything at all. At first I felt unsettled, as if somewhere along the lines I should have stepped up to participate more. However, I thought to myself “This is exactly how it is supposed to go!” because it meant that my community, Matekenya, Zulu, Mkungula, Evelyn, had stepped up and taken charge of the project. I could not have asked for anything more! Peace Corps tells us that we need to have the community “own” the projects, and in that way one can ensure almost sure success. Thus, I realized my lack of participation was actually a positive. Oh, and don’t worry, I did participate...in demonstrating the net usage. Boy, did everyone think it was the funniest thing! An azungu under a net and pretending to sleep got a lot of the people rolling around laughing. At least I provided some some entertainment ;)
The entire meeting went of without a hitch. When the nets were pulled out of the building we were storing them in, I got nervous and told Matekenya that I thought people might be get anxious thus resulting in some imagined mob scene from a Hollywood movie. He assured me things would be fine, that people would be patient and wait. He was right, much to my pleasure! We called up each village by name and distributed to each person on the lists the VHs had given us in the previous days. Honestly, it could not have gone smoother! Of course we had people trying to collect for those who did not attend but made exceptions where we felt it was sincere (i.e. someone who was handicapped or very ill). Those who did not show to the meeting were told there would be another training later in the week that they could attend and then collect their net.
I will be honest to say this was one of the most significant experiences in my service to date. I was able to look in to the eyes of Malawians who really needed help and whose lives would be changed simply by receiving a mosquito net. No, not all will be used appropriately, rather used for fishing nets or covering plants to protect from bugs. But you can’t let that stop you from helping where you can. Simply looking into the faces and seeing these old women who have undoubtedly seen more in their life than I ever will was such a humbling experience. Even in my personal journal I could not describe my feelings during this process, but it truly was life altering. 
That day we distributed close to 220 nets. With more to go, we held a training later that week to distribute more than 180, a smaller one distributing about 20, and 30 to my Women’s Sewing Group. With the remaining nets counted, I held a meeting with Matekenya, Evelyn, and Mkungula to discuss the opportunity for them to collect names of people they knew to be at high risk for malaria. They had built trust in me during the project planning and implementation, therefore knowing the names they would choose would indeed be those in need of mosquito nets.
It sounds corny, but it feels really good to have begun and completed a project of this nature. Most of mine at this point are rolling projects, meaning they are continuing and have no definite end. This distribution helped to show me that my community will step up and take responsibility and assist me in getting things done while organizing people in which I can’t (because of connections, not because of laziness :)). I also learned more about myself and my ability to create something (the training) almost from nothing while moving forward to get things done. If PSI will distribute more nets to us, we may have another go! In the meantime, Matekenya and I have discussed organizing a Safe Water demonstration, educating mothers on the best way to make dirty water safe for drinking for their families. The adventure always continues!


Mosquito Net Demonstration
BERDO, in Bwanje, Ntcheu, Malawi

Net Distribution
L-R: Health Advisor, Matekenya, VH
BERDO, Bwanje, Ntcheu

Demonstration for 20 women
Matekenya and VH
Njuli, Ntcheu

Demonstration for Women's Sewing Group
Bwanje, Ntcheu


Sunday, March 27, 2011

Movies are better than photos

With some quick internet connection, I had an opportunity to upload some videos to share! Enjoy :)




Tour of my house.

  • Dogs in order of appearance: mama dog, Chule, Nico, Peter
  • Living room: (knocked over a bottle of DOOM! it takes care of the buuuuugs), guest room/storage, abundance of spices, bedroom + princess net, music station, fuel stove tope, food prep table
  • Outside: Backyard, tobacco drying huts, garden (tomatoes, pumpkin, corn, carrots and onions in there too!), PETER!, kitchen (where said snakes have been found), bafa (aka shower) + my beautiful view, "Wawa!" = passing greeting, chimbudzie (aka toilet).
  • Basi! (Finished!)



The excitement around the house is never ending!