If I’ve learned anything yet about Peace Corps and living in Africa is that you essentially throw everything including expectations, schedules, and routines out the window. Previously I understood this as simply being the people and how they are accustomed to living their lives daily. But pretty quickly now I have realized that all these things can, and do, revolve around the seasons. I remember before coming to Peace Corps I was excited to be on “Mother Earth’s time.” Be careful what you wish for.
Hot season is more than I expected, that’s for sure. I remember first arriving to site, which was before cold season, and I thought “sheesh, this is warm!” and was promptly laughed at by other volunteers who had already experienced the hot season. Mind you I’m from Colorado which I can safely say has a weather pattern like heaven and no place on earth can beat. I miss the downpour of rain to cool off a hot day followed by the sun beautifully shining over the Rocky Mountains. But on the flip side, Colorado doesn’t have the African sunrise :)
At any rate, this moves me to inform all of you about my new routine, which is never consistent but at least helps me feel like I have some sort of structure to my day. Check out one of my blogs back in May or June talking about my routine and see how it’s changed. So let’s just throw it out there, if you haven’t gotten the point yet….IT IS HOT! The only time it is a little cooled off is from the early morning hours up until about 6 or 7 when it begins warming up. Everyone is up early, 4-5am to go work the fields before it gets too warm. Same applies for house chores and any extraneous activities.
My day usually begins around 5-5.30 after the rooster has woken me. I habitually sweep the house free of the previous day’s dirt and dead bugs. It’s always a delight to see how many cockroaches and crickets that didn’t find enough food to sustain them through the night are swept out the front door. It’s quite exciting when I remember having smashed a bug before having gone to bed to wake up and find it’s magically disappeared :) or been eaten, however serious you’re feeling at the time.
Water is always a must to have around. I’m finding I go through drinking water at least twice as fast as I did during the cold season. So I grab one of my 20 liter buckets and head to the well in my backyard. The tin bucket includes at least three different kinds of rope attached to it, which I’ve realized quick was done so it could reach further down into the well. Not only that, a meter long piece of wood was added to the end to give it a little bit more stretch. As I watch the bucket speed down the well I make sure to pay attention to the piece of wood so I don’t loose the whole thing and end up having to call an Iwe (informal “you” or simply what we call kids) to be lowered down to fish it out. I’m slightly tempted to try it just to see what happens. So far I’m 100% success :) When I feel a gentle tug, I crank that bucket out, pour it into my plastic bucket, and do it again to fill the 20 liters. Throw the sheet of tin over the top of the well and bucket on top, and then lift the 20 liters to my head. Yeah, you’d better believe I’m Malawian! I can carry it with a hand supporting the swaying motion of the water but I have a year and a half to perfect the “look ma, no hands!” routine.
I’ve realized quickly that hot season pretty much kills your appetite for food. If it doesn’t, then you’ll be feeling quite sorry after you stuffed your tummy full of rice and beans! My traditional breakfast of bananas and peanut butter has changed pretty quickly to mangos, seeing as it is that time of year. Let me tell you, WOW! Fresh mangos from the tree or in the market for 5 kwacha are absolutely unbelievable. I peel it straight from the source with a knife and cut chunks off to eat. It’s one of those times you give yourself permission to lick your hands :) I listen to Voice of America while I’m munching, if I can tune it in for the day, and get up to date on the tragedies happening around the world. Then I gladly turn it off and mentally return to my happy life here where people celebrate positive things daily.
By this time it’s about 8am, if I’m lucky. One big shift is that hot season requires an adjustment for scheduled meetings. Therefore 8-9am is good for a one hour meeting. By 10am it’s so hot to be out and about that most Malawians, myself included ;) are sleeping on a reed mat at their house or sitting under a shaded mango tree and pigging out until they can’t move. For me it’s swinging in my hammock, and pigging out until I can’t move. This, my friends, is my #1 prized possession during this time of year. Seeing as it gets up to 100F in my house during the day (who invented tin roofs in Africa anyways?!) extensive time inside is just not doable. But swinging and napping in the hammock is!! Makes me feel like I’m back on the beaches of Thailand, simply enjoying the breeze...even if it’s a hot one.
So 11-12 rolls around and it’s lunch time, if I’m hungry. I’ve become quite a pro and starting fires with a small piece of plastic, so that is no longer a hold up when making food. Instead now I hate sitting in front of hot coals, cooking hot food, when it’s already hot. Got me?! So far this season the tuna packets from my mom and accompanied mayo sachets from Jason, as well as protein bars, have been a life saver. They’re quick and light and I can eat them, well, not hot. Some days the only reason I cook is to feed the dogs, of which I’m supporting three now (Peter, my original pup, Chule and adopted puppy from the neighbors litter, and Jackson Chule’s dad, who has essentially adopted me since he’s caught on to the fact I’ll feed him).
Hot season has been brutal on them as well; they simply lie around and pant aaaaaall day. Makes me feel fortunate that I can take clothes off instead of having a heavy coat of fur! But when it cools off they come alive and are happy bouncing characters. They have quite a night life, let me tell ya!
After lunch I usually feel pretty bogged down from whatever I ate combined with chugging cups and cups of water to battle the dehydration. I recently purchased a village refrigerator (read: a clay pot that sweats making water “ice cold,” or so I try to convince myself). That thing is a life saver, let me tell ya! It chills off my homemade papaya wine, too, and with that you can’t go wrong. Anyways, by this time it’s usually calling for another swing in the hammock accompanied by a nap.
One day, early on in hot season, I made a big mistake of not changing the 2pm meeting time for one of my women’s sewing groups. For one, I’ve never sweat so much in my life doing anything. I was drenched. Two, no one showed up and I’d lie to say if I blamed them. Heck, I shouldn’t have even shown up to my own meeting, eesh! Lesson learned that 3pm or later is a better time for a meeting.
Following my afternoon meetings I arrive home around 4 or 5 sticky, stinky, dirty, and usually still sweating from being out and about. But this is a great time of day because it has cooled off just enough to be tolerable. Also, I get to enjoy my new shower :) Best invention set up I’ve had at my house yet. I follow my morning routine of fetching water but instead of putting it in the back room of my house I lift it to the plank of wood above my bafa area.
Once I’ve washed off and scrubbed the dirt from my day, I hang out in a chitenje until the sun goes down. This time of year you will find women constantly wearing just a chitenje because it is so hot! Much easier than clothes, anyways. And as I’ve told you I’m Malawian now so I just do as they do :) Instead of drying myself off completely I allow the water to evaporate, giving me a few more minutes of cooling before I become slightly sweaty and sticky again from the heat.
If I have any leftovers from lunch, or if I’m even hungry, I’ll munch on those. I’ve learned quickly that, unlike cold season, leftovers just don’t last until morning. Whatever is not eaten today becomes a bonus dog treat for Peter. Before the sun has completely set, I grab a book and head back to the hammock for a few swings of relaxation. I almost dread sleeping in the house as it’s usually still in the upper 90s by bed time, which is now around 6-6.30.
I reluctantly shut the doors, since it cuts off the breeze through the house, and kick the dogs out so they can have their evening rendezvous with buddies. I crawl under my mosquito net and lay down carefully ensuring no part of my body is unnecessarily resting on another. My bed and sheets are simply radiating heat that has been held from the day, which combined with the heat from my body is less than desirable. The fewer articles of clothing the better, I’ve realized quick. The beauty of living alone :) I usually begin sweating uncontrollably again but revel in the cool breeze that occasionally comes through my window. I don’t read any more at night while in bed because it’s just too darn hot!
Around 2-3am I’m awoken by a slight chill and throw a chitenje over myself for the remaining two hours of sleep, which are my favorite I can easily say. I can remember back to cold season when I had to wear long pants, t-shirt, sweatshirt, and sometimes socks in order to be comfortable while sleeping. Ohhhhh, the days.
It’s definitely quite a shift having my day revolve around the weather. We as Americans are used to doing things when we want to, regardless of the hour, season, month, or year. But here in Malawi where we cannot escape the heat, we must be sensitive to the hottest times of the days and do our best to stay out of the sun and fully hydrated. I’m getting used to it pretty quick, which by no means indicates that I enjoy it. But it is life here and you simply don’t have a choice. It’s similar to having to start a fire to cook: you can do it or not, it’s your choice, but there are consequences! It’s a bit of a challenge to stay sane through the heat but I’m excited in the fact that come December (hopefully!) the rains will be around and it will have cooled off. Although I’m fully aware that my daily routine will change again with the mud, but we’ll tackle that one when it arrives. In the mean time, happy detox :)
Justine showing how the hammock is done,
while enjoying papaya lemongrass wine.
(Outside my house in Bwanje, Malawi 10/10)
Peter doing his best to escape the heat. He actually sleeps like that.
What a gentleman.
(My hosue in Bwanje, Malawi 10/10)
The hottest season around here doesn't come until January/February, but I'm a wimp so I'm going to try heading south to see the glaciers and other 'cold stuff' when it gets super hot.
ReplyDeleteLiving by the heat sounds like it's a challenge. Do as the stoics do and 'turn the problem upside down' by seeing it as a season perfectly conformed to napping!