*pant* Hot *sigh* Season

I love Malawi. I really do. But hot season? Man alive, this is another beast entirely! I was absent from Bwanje for about four weeks of travel, training, and the Game Count in Liwonde National Park. Upon my arrival back home I was immediately (whether I wanted to be or not) enlightened that indeed, hot season had arrived.

If I’ve learned anything yet about Peace Corps and living in Africa is that you essentially throw everything including expectations, schedules, and routines out the window. Previously I understood this as simply being the people and how they are accustomed to living their lives daily. But pretty quickly now I have realized that all these things can, and do, revolve around the seasons. I remember before coming to Peace Corps I was excited to be on “Mother Earth’s time.” Be careful what you wish for.

Hot season is more than I expected, that’s for sure. I remember first arriving to site, which was before cold season, and I thought “sheesh, this is warm!” and was promptly laughed at by other volunteers who had already experienced the hot season. Mind you I’m from Colorado which I can safely say has a weather pattern like heaven and no place on earth can beat. I miss the downpour of rain to cool off a hot day followed by the sun beautifully shining over the Rocky Mountains. But on the flip side, Colorado doesn’t have the African sunrise :)

At any rate, this moves me to inform all of you about my new routine, which is never consistent but at least helps me feel like I have some sort of structure to my day. Check out one of my blogs back in May or June talking about my routine and see how it’s changed. So let’s just throw it out there, if you haven’t gotten the point yet….IT IS HOT! The only time it is a little cooled off is from the early morning hours up until about 6 or 7 when it begins warming up. Everyone is up early, 4-5am to go work the fields before it gets too warm. Same applies for house chores and any extraneous activities.

My day usually begins around 5-5.30 after the rooster has woken me. I habitually sweep the house free of the previous day’s dirt and dead bugs. It’s always a delight to see how many cockroaches and crickets that didn’t find enough food to sustain them through the night are swept out the front door. It’s quite exciting when I remember having smashed a bug before having gone to bed to wake up and find it’s magically disappeared :) or been eaten, however serious you’re feeling at the time.

Water is always a must to have around. I’m finding I go through drinking water at least twice as fast as I did during the cold season. So I grab one of my 20 liter buckets and head to the well in my backyard. The tin bucket includes at least three different kinds of rope attached to it, which I’ve realized quick was done so it could reach further down into the well. Not only that, a meter long piece of wood was added to the end to give it a little bit more stretch. As I watch the bucket speed down the well I make sure to pay attention to the piece of wood so I don’t loose the whole thing and end up having to call an Iwe (informal “you” or simply what we call kids) to be lowered down to fish it out. I’m slightly tempted to try it just to see what happens. So far I’m 100% success :) When I feel a gentle tug, I crank that bucket out, pour it into my plastic bucket, and do it again to fill the 20 liters. Throw the sheet of tin over the top of the well and bucket on top, and then lift the 20 liters to my head. Yeah, you’d better believe I’m Malawian! I can carry it with a hand supporting the swaying motion of the water but I have a year and a half to perfect the “look ma, no hands!” routine.

I’ve realized quickly that hot season pretty much kills your appetite for food. If it doesn’t, then you’ll be feeling quite sorry after you stuffed your tummy full of rice and beans! My traditional breakfast of bananas and peanut butter has changed pretty quickly to mangos, seeing as it is that time of year. Let me tell you, WOW! Fresh mangos from the tree or in the market for 5 kwacha are absolutely unbelievable. I peel it straight from the source with a knife and cut chunks off to eat. It’s one of those times you give yourself permission to lick your hands :) I listen to Voice of America while I’m munching, if I can tune it in for the day, and get up to date on the tragedies happening around the world. Then I gladly turn it off and mentally return to my happy life here where people celebrate positive things daily.

By this time it’s about 8am, if I’m lucky. One big shift is that hot season requires an adjustment for scheduled meetings. Therefore 8-9am is good for a one hour meeting. By 10am it’s so hot to be out and about that most Malawians, myself included ;) are sleeping on a reed mat at their house or sitting under a shaded mango tree and pigging out until they can’t move. For me it’s swinging in my hammock, and pigging out until I can’t move. This, my friends, is my #1 prized possession during this time of year. Seeing as it gets up to 100F in my house during the day (who invented tin roofs in Africa anyways?!) extensive time inside is just not doable. But swinging and napping in the hammock is!! Makes me feel like I’m back on the beaches of Thailand, simply enjoying the breeze...even if it’s a hot one.

So 11-12 rolls around and it’s lunch time, if I’m hungry. I’ve become quite a pro and starting fires with a small piece of plastic, so that is no longer a hold up when making food. Instead now I hate sitting in front of hot coals, cooking hot food, when it’s already hot. Got me?! So far this season the tuna packets from my mom and accompanied mayo sachets from Jason, as well as protein bars, have been a life saver. They’re quick and light and I can eat them, well, not hot. Some days the only reason I cook is to feed the dogs, of which I’m supporting three now (Peter, my original pup, Chule and adopted puppy from the neighbors litter, and Jackson Chule’s dad, who has essentially adopted me since he’s caught on to the fact I’ll feed him).

Hot season has been brutal on them as well; they simply lie around and pant aaaaaall day. Makes me feel fortunate that I can take clothes off instead of having a heavy coat of fur! But when it cools off they come alive and are happy bouncing characters. They have quite a night life, let me tell ya!

After lunch I usually feel pretty bogged down from whatever I ate combined with chugging cups and cups of water to battle the dehydration. I recently purchased a village refrigerator (read: a clay pot that sweats making water “ice cold,” or so I try to convince myself). That thing is a life saver, let me tell ya! It chills off my homemade papaya wine, too, and with that you can’t go wrong. Anyways, by this time it’s usually calling for another swing in the hammock accompanied by a nap.

One day, early on in hot season, I made a big mistake of not changing the 2pm meeting time for one of my women’s sewing groups. For one, I’ve never sweat so much in my life doing anything. I was drenched. Two, no one showed up and I’d lie to say if I blamed them. Heck, I shouldn’t have even shown up to my own meeting, eesh! Lesson learned that 3pm or later is a better time for a meeting.

Following my afternoon meetings I arrive home around 4 or 5 sticky, stinky, dirty, and usually still sweating from being out and about. But this is a great time of day because it has cooled off just enough to be tolerable. Also, I get to enjoy my new shower :) Best invention set up I’ve had at my house yet. I follow my morning routine of fetching water but instead of putting it in the back room of my house I lift it to the plank of wood above my bafa area.

Once I’ve washed off and scrubbed the dirt from my day, I hang out in a chitenje until the sun goes down. This time of year you will find women constantly wearing just a chitenje because it is so hot! Much easier than clothes, anyways. And as I’ve told you I’m Malawian now so I just do as they do :) Instead of drying myself off completely I allow the water to evaporate, giving me a few more minutes of cooling before I become slightly sweaty and sticky again from the heat.

If I have any leftovers from lunch, or if I’m even hungry, I’ll munch on those. I’ve learned quickly that, unlike cold season, leftovers just don’t last until morning. Whatever is not eaten today becomes a bonus dog treat for Peter. Before the sun has completely set, I grab a book and head back to the hammock for a few swings of relaxation. I almost dread sleeping in the house as it’s usually still in the upper 90s by bed time, which is now around 6-6.30.

I reluctantly shut the doors, since it cuts off the breeze through the house, and kick the dogs out so they can have their evening rendezvous with buddies. I crawl under my mosquito net and lay down carefully ensuring no part of my body is unnecessarily resting on another. My bed and sheets are simply radiating heat that has been held from the day, which combined with the heat from my body is less than desirable. The fewer articles of clothing the better, I’ve realized quick. The beauty of living alone :) I usually begin sweating uncontrollably again but revel in the cool breeze that occasionally comes through my window. I don’t read any more at night while in bed because it’s just too darn hot!

Around 2-3am I’m awoken by a slight chill and throw a chitenje over myself for the remaining two hours of sleep, which are my favorite I can easily say. I can remember back to cold season when I had to wear long pants, t-shirt, sweatshirt, and sometimes socks in order to be comfortable while sleeping. Ohhhhh, the days.

It’s definitely quite a shift having my day revolve around the weather. We as Americans are used to doing things when we want to, regardless of the hour, season, month, or year. But here in Malawi where we cannot escape the heat, we must be sensitive to the hottest times of the days and do our best to stay out of the sun and fully hydrated. I’m getting used to it pretty quick, which by no means indicates that I enjoy it. But it is life here and you simply don’t have a choice. It’s similar to having to start a fire to cook: you can do it or not, it’s your choice, but there are consequences! It’s a bit of a challenge to stay sane through the heat but I’m excited in the fact that come December (hopefully!) the rains will be around and it will have cooled off. Although I’m fully aware that my daily routine will change again with the mud, but we’ll tackle that one when it arrives. In the mean time, happy detox :)

Justine showing how the hammock is done,

while enjoying papaya lemongrass wine.

(Outside my house in Bwanje, Malawi 10/10)

Peter doing his best to escape the heat.  He actually sleeps like that.

What a gentleman.

(My hosue in Bwanje, Malawi 10/10)

I'm cleaner than you!

I’ll be honest to say there are not many things from home that I miss. Malawi has become my home and all the good and bad along with it is simply life. Sure there are times where I have a burning desire for sushi but it passes pretty quickly knowing that there is no way that I’ll be getting it any time soon. Same goes for grocery store cupcakes… I can safely say the one thing I miss most is a shower.

One of my favorite parts of going to Lilongwe isn’t necessarily the 24/7 electricity (err, when the power doesn’t go out) or the pizza joint across the street from Mufasa’s Lodge. No no, it’s a shower. It’s feeling squeaky clean, as if every fold of skin between your toes has been soaked long enough to dislodge the weeks of walking around barefoot. Or it’s noticing that the water washing down the drain isn’t expected clear water but rather a slight tint of brown...and the shock of realizing that “yep, that’s how dirty I am.” It’s not that I don’t wash at site. In fact, I bafa every day (being hot season you have to...if you don’t then, well, that’s just nasty) and scrub as best as possible. But nothing beats a shower.

Upon my return from my four weeks of travel I decided it was it’s time to take this shower making business seriously. Growing up, I admired watching my dad in the garage as he would tinker with things. Sometimes I would ask what he was doing, other times I would just watch. I was fascinated how he would come up with a new system of fixing something simply by what he had at his disposal. I admired that quality of him and, ha, secretly hoped that a future spouse would posses the same ability. Anyways, remember those times I thought to myself “there is no way I shouldn’t be able to figure out having a shower here!”

By now you all know I don’t have running water (if that’s a shock to you then you’ve missed reading a lot of my blogs...chop chop!) so obviously hooking up some sort of pipe was definitely not an option. Next I thought “my bafa is out doors with no roof so I could rig something up there.” I was trying to be as simplistic as possible. I’d heard of other volunteers hooking up some sort of tubing system that connects to a bucket and a shower head (read: head from a tin watering can)...or something to that extent.

First I went to my carpenter friend, who has built all but one piece of furniture in my house. “You are my customer” he tells me, and thus always gives me a good price on things he builds. So I explained to him how I wanted to make a shower and I needed a 120cm long board. He laughed, most likely thinking “crazy azungu, how are you going to make a shower?!” I told him I just needed the board and I’d show him! The next day I picked it up and strapped it to the back of my bike and drove home. Oh boy was I excited!!

I had determined the perfect bucket to use was one with a hand spout at the bottom. When you think about it you simply turn the handle and water comes out, right? Well my doubt was whether or not the water would come out fast enough to really simulate a shower. There is only one way to find out. After retrieving my bucket full of water I transferred it from my head to the board, fortunately the same level height. Now was the moment of truth.

I turned the knob and the water came dripping out. I turned it further and it came out in a steady stream. Holy cow, had I just done it?! Had I just created a village shower?! The simplest one, I dare say. If I recall correctly I began laughing, most likely confusing the heck out of my neighbors who already think I’m nuts for half the things I do. I was also laughing knowing that I had one upped my site mate, Justine, with the new luxury at my house. She has electricity, but I have a shower.

Really, the only reason I wanted a shower was to make my site more appealing for other volunteers to site visit me. Ha, NOT! Just kidding :p But I know my parents are planning a visit at some point during my service. Now, I know that my parents enjoy traveling in style - running water (of course, but palibe!), hot shower, coffee in the morning, bacon and eggs if possible - you know, the basics. So now that I have a shower set up (yes, we can do a warm shower by putting the bucket in the sun for a few hours, HA!) I just have to work on the continental breakfast and fresh brewed coffee. I’ve got the baking of cakes down so we could do scones, but that bacon we’ll have to work on, sorry dad ;) At least be happy I have a shower, though, because I smell much better and am much cleaner than I have been in months :)

Game Count, Liwonde National Park

When I think of Africa I think of elephants. Giant creatures, which are rumored to be the only mammal that can’t jump but move with grace, trunks swaying and feeling for tasty treats. There is something about their nature that is extremely intriguing and has resulted in my being my favorite animal…next to bunnies, of course.

Ever since being a child I have wanted to see elephants. Okay, nix that...I wanted to ride one. I thought I would go to India, hop on the back of one, and have a grand adventure waving to people in the streets while wearing the colorful traditional wear. This was before realizing that there were two different kinds of elephants but even then it didn’t matter where it happened. I played my cards right and was able to spend a day with Asian elephants during a trip to Chiang Mai, Thailand. It was one of those days where I could imagine nothing better happening in my life...one of those days you think “I am completely content!”

At the beginning of my Peace Corps service I signed up for the yearly Game Count in Liwonde National Park. It is located south east of my site, Bwanje, and thus an easy day trip away. As days and weeks inched closer I became more and more excited, butterflies in my tummy in anticipation of laying eyes on “my” African elephant. Just prior to that I had IST (In Service Training) in Dedza which was good but hardly worth a blog ;)

The day came for travel to Liwonde for the weekend for my “job.” Ha, I love that I can have fun and call it work; you can’t get much better than that! After a seamless hitch straight to Ulongwe to meet free transport into the park, I relaxed while eating some eggs made at a local market…a manner in which my mother would be horrified, but it was absolutely delicious. We were then driven up to the Shire River while trying to keep our bearings over the pot holed road. I love these rides, actually, because it makes me feel like I’m on that Indian Jones ride at Disneyland. Just wait for more Disney references to come

Our group of 10+ loaded our bodies and belongings into a wooden boat preparing to cross the Shire River. Now, before you Lord of the Rings fans get too excited (okay, maybe I’m just talking to myself here…), it’s pronounced “Shiri.” At first I couldn’t believe I’d made it to the Shire River in Hobbiton :p Anyways, we were briefed by a guide to “keep all body parts inside the boat, as we all want to arrive safely to the other side” speech. Upon peering around I could see hippos in the water and possibly crocodiles, and realized quickly that he probably knew what he was doing.

All of us arrived safely and I managed to keep my fingers and toes inside the boat, despite a burning desire to test the water to really see if the crocs were out. I figured my run in with the mamba was enough excitement for my service…at this point. When we were lead to the area we were camping I immediately eyed the warthogs. Remember Pumba from The Lion King? Well, I’ll tell you, Disney has it spot on. I half expected one of them to stand up, call over Timon, and start belting out Hakuna Matata. They even crouch to their knees when grazing which is absolutely funny.

Shortly after rigging up my tent a group of us spotted some animals that began coming out of the forested area. Feeling like trackers, we quietly and quickly crept closer to where they were but kept a safe distance. Amongst the sable, impala, and warthogs beheld the elephants. My elephants. The mysteriously beautiful creatures I’ve admired since being a child, I was looking straight at them. I assure you I had a permanent grin on my face. With borrowed binoculars I peered out and admired what I was seeing. I’d made it! To Africa, no less, but to see the animals I, for so long have admired

At one point I sat crouched under a tree atop a dirt mound. I’d brought along a container of home brewed papaya wine and sipped while I looked on. In that moment I felt at peace. A moment I had waited all my life until now had arrived and I could do nothing else than sit in the excitement of watching them graze. I could even hear the ripping of the trees as I saw them pull food off the branches. In this moment I could die happy.

And with that I may have spoken too soon. I absentmindedly chose a spot for my tent that was away from the buildings and cooking area. By day we watched as warthogs bathed in the small mud holes, and by night I listened as elephants grazed off of the acacia tree no more than 15 meters from my tent. A fellow PCV came in my tent during the first night horrified that we would be trampled by the elephants. My response? “Move, I want to see them!”

The following two days we were split into small groups with scouts to perform our transect walks, counting animals and recording them as we walked. Day 1 was a 12k trek during which I was grateful to have really good hiking boots (but cursed the rats that managed to find their way to them and chew out parts of the soles). We saw dozens of warthogs and impala but no rhinos or elephants. Palibe vuto, since the previous day I was able to see the elephants.

When we were leaving camp for our Day 2 walk, the elephants were just outside the compound enjoying their breakfast. They were so close and happened to have a striking resemblance to the elephants found on the safari ride at Disneyland (I’m telling you, they know how to do it!). Once we jumped out of the truck for our shorter 5k walk we spotted a water buffalo not too far off. We stopped for our photo op, of course, but were quickly rushed along by the scout since we were receiving a proper stare-down from the beast.

No rhinos on this trip but we were stopped by a herd of elephants and had to take a 30+ minute detour so that we could go around them. It was a successful trek and a pleasure that it was significantly shorter than the one before (being that it’s hot season it heats up by 8am and, well, you just don’t want to be exerting yourself much later than that).

I could have stayed in the park for much longer, but alas my work in Bwanje called me back. I was yearning to see my three “boys” and get back to the simplicity of village life. But the whole weekend got me excited to begin a Wildlife Club with the students at Kalikhoka, the private secondary school in Bwanje. It also got me contemplating the possibility of signing on for a third year with Peace Corps. I would love to do work with animals and might have the possibility of doing rhino tracking and research if it worked out. But I do have to continually remind myself that I have to sanely complete my two year commitment to Peace Corps. Who knows, by then I may be yearning for a fresh plate of sushi and cupcakes. Knowing it is an option and possibly an opportunity keeps me excited for the work I’m doing now. But until then I’ll teach the students about the animals here in Malawi while organizing a trip to visit Liwonde next year. Until then, my dogs will have to be my wild animals.

Indiana Jones ride!

I'm having trouble uploading more photos to my blog page here, so visit my facebook photos to see some more of Liwonde.

Unexpected guest

*Disclaimer: If you are horrified of snakes I would advise not reading this post.  I’ve tried to be conservative on the photos on my mothers behalf ;)

My evening routine of washing up for bed includes brushing my teeth in my backyard and spitting somewhere in the dirt.  I enjoy it, really, because I’ll shut of my headlamp when I am scrubbing away and look up at the stars and constellations, feeling a sense of calmness and excitement in being able to stare at the vastness of the night sky.  It gives me a feeling of being absorbed in nature.

But this night was different, as I realized very quickly while walking to my customary spot.  I heard an unfamiliar hissing sound near my kitchen and looked over, immediately freezing in my steps.  In my weak headlamp light my eyes focused on a snake perched up in the striking position about 5 meters away.  My gut told me immediately that it was a black mamba and I had recalled hearing that they are not to be messed with. I backed up quickly to the house while keeping my eye on the snake the whole time trying to think fast of what to do to kill it.  Having dogs and people around the compound, I knew that letting the snake go was not an option.

Thinking fast I grabbed a brick I use to prop open the back door and followed the snake as it slithered away.  I threw it as hard as I could and hit my target just as he crawled into a pile of bricks currently being used for construction on my house.  Apparently the snake thought it was a good idea for hiding, but it really allowed me to strategize a bit longer on how I was going to get him.  I then had a few seconds to run inside the house and grab my khasu (hoe) in possible preparation of chopping it in half and also trade out batteries in my headlamp so that I could see him vibrantly.

Not knowing what else to do I began peeling the bricks off one an other, working my way closer to the two bricks the snake was sitting between.  I would pull one off, and back up to asses that the snake was not coming my way, and then pull another one off.  I could hear him hissing and occasionally see a flicker of his tongue come from between the bricks.  I was getting closer...but then what?

At one brick away I decided to take a good swing with my khasu and try to smash him between the brick.  Failed attempt.  The snake began to come out of the pile of bricks and in confusion and instinct I brought down the khasu as hard as I could.  As the dust settled I found victory that I had chopped the snake roughly 6 inches from the head.  I sighed mental relief!  It didn’t hit me until then that had I not killed the snake at the first attempt then I would likely be panicking with a snake bite.

I watched for a few minutes as the snake continued writhing around while doing my best to keep the dogs away.  I couldn’t believe it!  I’m one of the last people I would expect to pull a stunt like that!  The body continued to writhe around and inch its way closer to the head.  I couldn’t help but flash back to zombie movies where somehow the head and body find themselves and reattach.  Would this snake come back to life with a vengeance?! I called my neighbors over to show them what had happened and they were all in shock as well but also thinking “what a crazy azungu!”  When it had stopped moving I lifted the two pieces to my khasu while trying to to explain that I wanted to keep the snake, using the excuse that I didn’t want the dogs getting at it.  But in reality I had another plan.

I have heard of volunteers killing snakes and then skinning them to keep the hide.  After some mental deliberation and a movie on my iPod later, I decided it was best to do it before the morning.  With simple instructions looked up on my internet phone, I went to work with belly of the snake.  I started with a fish filleting knife but it proved more difficult to cut through the skin than I imagined.  I proceeded as carefully as possible so as not to pierce anything inside.  I felt like I was back in biology class in complete awe of seeing the inside of an animal I would never have had an option of otherwise.  Fascinating, really!  Had it not been closer to midnight, hours after my regular bedtime, I likely would have spent more time dissecting :)

Some 45 minutes later I had managed to cut open the belly, only slipping once near the tail of the snake releasing a horrifying smell.  At least I was almost done!  I had no wood board to open and nail the skin to, so I figured second best was the wall in my back room.  Could it be that much different than using wood?  I meticulously nailed the skin open to dry and then figured “what the heck, might as well do the neck and head as well.”  That was a little bit more uncomfortable since I didn’t want to somehow split some sort of venom pouch and find myself in a very sticky situation.  

I managed to get everything nailed to the wall and actually felt very proud of myself.  What other time in my life would allow me such an experience?!  I’ve realized quickly in Peace Corps Malawi that sometimes you just have to “go for it.”  Growing up I was more cautious in certain situations ensuring as best I could that I was mentally prepared for what was to come.  But so much of my job, and with the snake situation specifically, I simply don’t have that luxury of planning.  I just have to go for it and hope that I succeed or that there is some sort of benefit from at least trying.  All risks in life are rewarding, if for nothing less than a fantastic learning experience.  It can be scary and gratifying at the same time, and sometimes it’s awesome enough that you end up with the hide of one of the worlds deadliest snakes, a black mamba, on your wall.  

Skin on the wall

Close up :)